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    Parquet laying price

    How much does flooring installation cost? Flooring installation service fees may vary dramatically. They range between NGN700 and NGN1,000/m2 installation cost only, and even more, depending on the existing substrate. The price depends on the type of materials, scope of work, and the professional you hire, but it averages about NGN9,000 to NGN10,000/m2 for installation and materials.

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    Average Cost of Restoring a Parquet Floor


    Labor cost of restoring a parquet floor The cost of resorting parquet flooring, including buffing, gap filling, sealing, and two coats of varnish.

    1500.00 ₦/m2

    VERY LOW PRICE
    ₦/m2

    MIDDLE PRICE
    2500.00 ₦/m2

    HIGH PRICE
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    Parquet laying


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    Wooden flooring


    How much does parquet floor fitting cost? The prices of parquet floor installation may vary drastica...

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    Parquet - everything you need to know

    1. Parquet flooring - what do you need to know?

    The floor is the most exposed part of the home and receives the most wear and tear; hence, when choosing flooring, it’s vital that you give it careful thought. Of all the types of flooring available, parquet flooring is the only one that can be restored to look as good as new.

    Parquet flooring.jpg
    Laying parquet flooring is a demanding job that requires expertise and experience.

    The various types of parquet flooring available differ in terms of their characteristics, which are largely determined by the type of wood it is made of.

    Hardness - Parquet flooring made from wood with a higher hardness rating should be used for floors that are subject to heavy traffic. The higher the numerical rating, the more durable the parquet is.

    Colour - Parquet flooring made from the same type of wood comes in a whole range of shades and colours. When choosing the colour you want, make sure you get a large-sized sample, so you get a good idea of what it will look like on your floor. The shade can also change during the first few months of use as the wood oxidises. Therefore, suppliers cannot guarantee that the shade of the flooring will be identical to the one you saw when you chose it.

    Quality class - Manufacturers categorise parquet flooring into different classes in accordance with internal and professional standards (A, B, C, D, I, II, III, standard, rustic, extra, etc.). These designations refer exclusively to appearance, texture, and colour, not the quality of the parquet.

    Stability - The relative humidity in rooms and structures affects the wood, which expands and contracts, so some types of wood are considered more stable or less stable. The parquet flooring which is most susceptible to deforming due to moisture is that made of beech and maple; therefore, it is not recommended when temperatures are unstable or there is too much heat. Engineered parquet flooring is best in these cases.

    Thermal conductivity - The lower the thermal conductivity factor, the more suitable the parquet is for very high temperatures. If you are exposed to high temperatures, we advise you to go for engineered parquet flooring, particularly the thinner, two-layer flooring.

    Surface protection - The surface of the parquet flooring is either lacquered or oiled. Oil gives the wood a more natural appearance, while the varnish makes it shinier. Lacquered parquet is easier to maintain, and when the varnish has worn away, the entire surface should be buffed and then varnished again. Regular maintenance of oiled parquet flooring is more demanding. It requires specially formulated cleaning products and needs oiling as regularly as possible (at least once a year, but it depends on the frequency of use). If damage does occur, it can be repaired by sanding and re-oiling just the damaged area, meaning the entire floor does not have to be re-sanded.

    2. Choosing a fitter and what needs doing in terms of preparation

    Laying parquet flooring is a demanding job that requires expertise and experience, so we recommend you don’t take it on yourself; instead, use a professional who comes with excellent testimonials and reviews. It would be best to ask around, particularly among family and friends, or send an enquiry via the Daibau platform and you’ll receive quotes from top professionals. When discussing the quote with them, bear in mind the following steps:

    2.1. Site survey and measuring up

    At least a month before you plan to fit the floor, it will be necessary to carry out a site survey and to measure up. The square footage of the floor needs to be properly measured and the condition of the substrate or underlayment needs checking (whether it is flat, at what level, how compact, solid, and clean it is, whether there are cracks, etc.). The humidity of both the substrate and the room itself must also be measured. This will allow whoever is fitting the floor to know exactly how much parquet, skirting, and other material will be needed. Everything needs ordering in good time as delivery can sometimes take over a month. The initial survey will also determine whether the dry or wet screed or other subflooring is of sufficient height and what kind of binder will be used to lay the parquet and/or to join it to adjacent floor coverings (threshold fittings and skirting). All building work should be completed before laying the parquet flooring. Once it has been laid, all that should remain in terms of finishing works is to fit door frames, skirting and threshold fittings, and the final polishing of the floor.

    2.2. Subfloor preparation

    A properly prepared subfloor is the most important factor when it comes to making sure the parquet flooring is laid well.

    Cleanliness

    The first step in preparing the subfloor is to clean it thoroughly to remove any debris or adhesives left from other construction work (cement mortar, paint, wax, oil, etc.) since these can prevent the parquet flooring from sticking properly in certain places.

    Solidity

    If the floor has been screeded well during building work, it will be strong and stable and the flooring will adhere to it without any problem. If not, a primer will need to be applied.

    Flat subfloor

    The subfloor on which the parquet will be laid must be completely flat, without any bumps, dips, or cracks. Moreover, it can’t be too smooth or too rough. If it is substandard or if an old floor covering is being removed, then a self-levelling compound must be used – this is mixed on site with the quantities and proportions depending on the required thickness and the load the floor will have to withstand.

    Completely dry screed

    Before laying the parquet flooring, wait until the screed is completely dry. Otherwise, moisture will remain trapped under the parquet and after a while it will start to bulge, come away from the subfloor, and disintegrate.

    Air temperature and humidity

    Before laying the flooring, it is vital that the temperature and humidity inside the room is suitable so as to prevent the wood from twisting, shrinking, or expanding. The temperature should be +16-20°C and the humidity 45-65%.

    3. Types of parquet flooring

    3.1. Pre-finished engineered parquet

    Pre-finished engineered parquet flooring is ready for immediate installation. What distinguishes it from classical parquet flooring is that it is sold oiled, varnished, waxed, thermally modified or smoked, sanded, brushed, bleached, black-washed, stained, etc. During production, the flooring is varnished or oiled several times and is therefore more durable. It is composed of two or three layers of wood, with only the top layer made of solid wood, the species of which gives the parquet flooring its ‘name’. This top veneer is at least 3-4 mm thick. The lower, structural layer or layers are made from coniferous woods or plywood. Each layer is positioned in a different direction, which gives the flooring elasticity and prevents it from warping and bowing when there are changes in temperature. Pre-finished engineered parquet is the most stable, i.e. it is best resistant to temperature fluctuations. It’s impact-resistant, easy to maintain, and its colour is fairly resistant to deterioration. 

    3.2. Solid parquet flooring

    This kind of parquet is made from different types of wood. When properly treated and fitted, solid parquet flooring can last for decades, even a whole century. It can be glued down or installed as a floating floor (depending on the type of subfloor, which is often wooden in older houses or dry/wet screeding in newer ones). Classic parquet flooring blocks are made of solid wood, 2-3 cm thick. Due to its thickness, this type of parquet flooring can be buffed and varnished over and over again. It is also an excellent thermal insulator, quite soft, and very pleasant to walk on.

    3.3. ‘On edge’ or industrial parquet

    ‘On edge’ parquet flooring is becoming increasingly popular due to its affordability. It consists of thicker, but smaller solid wood slats that are glued together, edge to edge, to usually form a 15x15 cm square. This type of flooring is made of oak, beech, or ash, but also of more exotic species such as teak and wenge. It is often referred to as industrial parquet because it is very hard and durable, but also very attractive as every board is a different colour.

    3.4. Solid wood strip flooring

    Like classic parquet flooring, this flooring is also a solid wood flooring. It is usually made of oak or ash and comes in larger dimensions than parquet. Strip flooring is usually 0.8-1.9 cm thick, no more than 7-10 cm wide, and 30-200 cm long.

    3.5. Solid wood plank flooring

    Again, this is another type of solid wood flooring, but is larger in terms of dimensions. It comes in unfinished and pre-finished versions. The planks can be 25-50 cm wide and up to 5 m in length. They are usually 1.2-1.9 cm thick. Due to the size of the individual planks, plank flooring looks really impressive in large rooms. Usually made of spruce, fir, larch, or pine, this type of flooring is an excellent investment and adds a touch of sophistication and luxury to any property.

    4. Installing and fixing solid wood flooring

    When installing solid wood flooring, you need to think about its format and the direction it should be laid in.

    4.1. Direction and method of laying solid wood flooring

    If you are dealing with solid wood plank or strip flooring, the boards are laid parallel to the longest wall in the room. If the space is square, then be guided by the light source - window, glass wall, balcony door, etc. The planks should be laid in the same direction as the light source. Attention should also be paid to the layout of the room (the most frequently used parts of the room, how the furniture is arranged, etc.), as well as to the aesthetics. Before laying the flooring, you need to determine the starting point and the finishing point, as well as the wall which you will use as a guide. Flooring with a pattern, such as intarsia flooring or herringbone, will require some other preliminary works before you begin laying it.

    4.2. Primer and adhesive

    The adhesive used depends on the type of flooring. If you’re fitting longer planks or laying parquet flooring over underfloor heating, a two-component polyurethane adhesive is usually used. For other types, a silane-based adhesive is commonly applied. The subfloor is coated with a primer beforehand that helps the adhesive to stick better and to protect the screed from moisture. The primer and adhesive must always be compatible.

    4.3. Fitting pre-finished engineered flooring

    When pre-finished engineered flooring is laid, whether it be varnished or oiled, the adhesive is applied to the subfloor (either a dry or a wet screed) using a notched trowel. The flooring is then laid, but there needs to be a gap of at least 1 cm between the wall and the edge of the flooring so it can expand if needed. This expansion gap is later covered by skirting so it won’t be visible, but it’s very important that this is done with precision so the glue does not get on the wooden flooring. Once laid, the floor must not be walked on for 24 hours. As a general rule, no heavy furniture or other loads should be placed on the floor for at least a week, nor should it get wet; during that week, any other finishing works should also be avoided in that room.

    4.4. Floating installation

    Floating installation is used for click-system wooden flooring. This is flooring that has a tongue and groove design and does not require glue. An appropriate underlay (felt, cork, or foam) must be placed under it in order for it to be more stable, softer, and quieter when walking on it. A floating floor is also used in cases where there is an old floor covering still down (stone, ceramic tiles, or old parquet flooring).

    4.5. Gluing solid wood flooring

    When solid wood flooring is placed on an adhesive, it must be left for several days (depending on the type of adhesive and the method of finishing). Pre-finished parquet flooring - i.e. that arrives buffed and polished - only needs to be lightly sanded and re-varnished or re-oiled after laying. In this case, special attention must be paid to the temperature and humidity in the room. Solid wood plank flooring and unfinished solid wood parquet requires more extensive and complex treatment after installation, which will be discussed below.Parquet flooring

    4.6. Buffing parquet flooring

    Once the flooring has been laid and has been left for long enough, it needs sanding or buffing. This should always be left to an expert, not only because of their expertise and experience, but also because of the special machines and tools that must be used. After all, the final look of the flooring will depend on the method used and the quality of the work. If it’s done poorly, it cannot be repaired by simply varnishing or oiling the flooring. For this reason, it’s necessary to first clean the floor thoroughly and check that it is glued down properly. The first round of sanding is done with more abrasive sandpaper or brushes (36-40 grit). The floor is sanded at an angle of 30° to the wood grain. When the entire surface has been sanded in one direction, it needs to be sanded in the opposite direction, using circular movements, at an angle of 60°. Then, the corners, skirting, and other hard-to-reach places are sanded with a smaller machine or by hand. The next round of sanding is done with less pressure and with less abrasive sandpaper or brushes (60-80 grit). Finally, any gaps or holes in the parquet are filled in (especially the case when it comes to old parquet) and then it is sanded one last time with the finest grit suitable for harder or softer wood (100 or 120 grit) to make the floor completely smooth and finish-friendly. Before the next stage of lacquering or oiling, the parquet floor must be thoroughly cleaned with an antistatic cloth.

    4.7. Lacquering

    When the parquet flooring has been buffed and thoroughly cleaned, it can be lacquered. First, one coat is applied and then a top coat. Once the first coat has dried, the entire floor should be buffed once more using the finest grit. The varnish is applied and left to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Particular attention must be paid to making sure that it is applied evenly. Today, there are many types of lacquer available, most of which do not pose a risk to the environment or human health. The one you choose will depend on the final look you want to achieve and what the room is used for.

    4.8. Oiling

    Parquet flooring that has been buffed and thoroughly cleaned can also be oiled. The oil is applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions with a roller, pad, or cloth (either with a machine or by hand). What is important is that it is distributed evenly. When the wood has absorbed all the oil and the surface is dry, it can be gently sanded and re-oiled. You’ll need to oil unfinished wood flooring at least twice. If you often have guests or have small children and pets, then oiled parquet is the perfect flooring.

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